Whit in Santa Barbara
When I started planning a summer mother/daughter trip something was pulling me towards California. I couldn’t get the image of cool morning walks on the beach, Spanish style homes, overflowing bougainvillea, and afternoon tea with Megs and Harry out of my mind (a girl can dream.) With international tourist destinations still limited, it’s been fun to turn my attention state-side — this will be one of two California trips I make this summer. West Coast…best coast?
Planning a trip with a parent requires special considerations so Santa Barbara seemed like it would provide the perfect mix of relaxation and exploration, plus those coastal chic vibes I was after. At the risk of sounding like a walking ad for the Santa Barbara tourism board, there really is something for everyone here — nature lovers, beach enthusiasts, epicureans, and history buffs. It’s easy to build a balanced itinerary that has both upscale and more relaxed moments.
The city’s distinct architecture style comes from the influence of Spanish settlers in the late 1700s and early 1800s, as evidenced by the Old Mission and what is now the County Courthouse. This manifests itself now in “white stucco walls, exposed beam ceilings, red-tile roofs and floors, arcades, and courtyards” — what can best be described as Mediterranean and Spanish-revival architecture. Santa Barbara is a photographer, architecture, and garden lover’s dream. Terri and I had the best few days bopping around, driving along the shore with the windows down, indulging in amazing meals, and shopping for our future dream houses.
Getting there and getting around
You have a couple of options getting to Santa Barbara — you can fly into the Santa Barbara Municipal Airport (with direct flights from hubs like Seattle, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Phoenix, Dallas, and Denver) or fly into Los Angeles and either drive or take the train a couple hours up the coast. The Pacific Surfliner Amtrak train dumps you right in the middle of town and, from what we heard, is actually quite a convenient option.
We opted to fly into the tiny Santa Barbara airport (via Dallas) and pick up a rental car. While there is plenty to do that’s walkable in downtown Santa Barbara, I would highly recommend renting a car to access more of the surrounding area. Be warned that airfares and rental car prices are simply insane at the moment. Such is life.
The Lay of the Land
Surrounded by the towering backdrop of the Santa Ynez Mountains and bordered by the sea, the city of Santa Barbara and neighboring Montecito are truly jewels of the Pacific. Nicknamed the “American Rivera,” the area has close ties to the Hollywood rich and famous while still retaining its discreet elegance and charm.
To speak in technicalities, the county of Santa Barbara contains the city of Santa Barbara and the unincorporated community of Montecito as well as the Santa Ynez Valley (Goleta, Carpinteria, Summerland, and Santa Maria are all other locations in the area but we didn’t visit). We split the majority of our time between Santa Barbara and Montecito which are only about 10 minutes away from each other.
Santa Barbara and nearby Montecito can be broken into a few smaller neighborhoods of note:
Downtown Santa Barbara/Lower State Street: The pedestrian-friendly central shopping district in Santa Barbara; pedestrian-friendly historic State Street is lined with shops and restaurants
The Funk Zone: Converted warehouses have made this little neighborhood the hot spot in Santa Barbara; think boutique tasting rooms, eclectic shops, and some of the town’s hottest new restaurants
Santa Barbara Waterfront: View the world-famous coastline and the Santa Barbara Harbor; stroll Stearns Wharf, hop a sightseeing cruise, or cruise along the coastal bike path (a little touristy, but worth a quick visit)
Mesa: A beautiful, quiet residential neighborhood close to downtown Santa Barbara, tucked into the bluffs high above beach with lovely views; great for a morning stroll
Coast Village Road: A stretch of road in Montecito home to chic shops and charming restaurants
We stayed in this darling little Airbnb easily walkable to The Funk Zone, Lower State Street, and Stearns Wharf. There are also some really lovely (but expensive!) hotel options on the beach and in the mountains that would be great for a romantic getaway and for more of a resort-style vacation.
The Beaches
With miles and miles of coastline, your beach options feel seemingly endless. Since we visited in June, we experienced what the locals lovingly refer to as June Gloom where warm desert wind hits the cold ocean water and covers the area with a dreary, grey fog. For the most part, the fog usually dissipated by noon leaving behind brilliant blue skies. We were still able to enjoy walks on the beach, but if you want true beach weather you’re better off visiting in July and August when the sun and water are warmest. For reference, during our visit the temperatures were in the mid-70s during the day, but it did get quite chilly once the sun set.
Here are a couple of beaches we loved walking in the morning:
1,000 Steps Beach (park in the parking lot in Shoreline Park and make your way through the neighborhood; it’s not technically 1,000 steps but it is quite steep down to the beach but the views are worth it!)
Mesa Steps Beach (park in the neighborhood and admire the beautiful and eclectic homes as you make your way to the stairs, since this beach is adjacent to Arroyo Burro Beach you’ll probably see a lot of off leash dogs)
Butterfly Beach (beautiful beach located in Montecito, less dramatic in terms of steepness but just as gorgeous with palm trees lining the beach)
To Eat
This was definitely one of our more food-focused trips; the area is teaming with fresh produce and seafood and such creative minds in the kitchen. Terri is (mostly) pescatarian and we had no issues finding great meals.
Olivers (if Nancy Myers opened a vegetarian restaurant this would be it; this restaurant truly exemplifies indoor/outdoor living, such a magical little place with lanterns in the trees, fire pits, sleek furniture and creative dishes)
Loquita (there’s a reason everyone’s buzzing about this Spanish-with-a-twist spot in the Funk Zone; make sure to make a reservation or get there when they open to snag a spot, definitely ask to be seated outside in their colorful garden)
The Lark (best meal of our trip; fresh, creative, and approachable food that is locally sourced and best enjoyed family style also in the Funk Zone)
Bettina (I’m still daydreaming about this pizza crust! This charming little spot is perfect for a pizza and a fancy salad, located in Montecito Country Mart)
Flor de Maiz (popped in here for a drink at the bar, wouldn’t recommend for dinner as it’s loud and crowded)
Helena Avenue Bakery (this place came highly reviewed, but I have to stay I was disappointed...the food was just ok and the experience left much to be desired)
Dart Coffee (my favorite find in Santa Barbara, this coffee shop serves up breakfast burritos, pastries, and cake doughnuts that melt in your mouth...duck across the street to their tranquil coffee garden to enjoy your treats!)
Bossie’s Kitchen (we didn’t make it hear, but this casual local market offering lunch and dinner seems like a great spot)
Jeannine’s (another spot we didn’t make it to, but this is supposed to be one of the spots for breakfast or lunch in Montecito)
Hook & Press donuts (wish we had heard about these fresh, gourmet donuts while we were in still town but OMG they look almost too good eat)
McConnell’s Fine Ice Cream (a lot of hype for just okay ice cream IMHO)
To do and see
Drive up to the Old Mission Santa Barbara, one of the city’s most picturesque landmarks. You can see all the way to the ocean from here! Don’t miss out on the Mission’s Rose Garden just across the street.
Spend an afternoon wining and dining on the terrace of the Revere Room at the Rosewood Miramar Beach. Shoutout to Jess Sturdy for making this recommendation, we had the loveliest afternoon sipping cocktails and taking in the views at this luxurious resort; such a great way to visit these properties without the price tag of staying.
Stroll around the shops at Paseo Neuvo, a picturesque Spanish-style, open air, shopping center tucked away off State Street. While you’re in the area, pop into Locals’ Collective for some beautiful, local made items including gorgeous jewelry from Anna Janelle.
While you’re on State Street, head over to the Santa Barbara County Courthouse to see this architectural gem.
If you’re not shopped out, head to Coast Village Road in Montecito for an afternoon stroll and to peruse some beautiful high-end boutiques including the uber chic Marcus and super minimal Angel.
Enjoy the drive along the coast — Marina Drive, Cliff Drive, Shoreline Drive, and East Cabrillo Boulevard are stunning roads to meander down along the coastline.
Visit Lotusland, a non-profit botanic garden in Montecito located at the historic estate of Madame Ganna Walska. Lotusland is home to some extraordinary and exotic plants, but you must make reservations in advance! Unfortunately I was unable to get tickets, but I am dying to go.
Get out on the water with the Santa Barbara Sailing Center, they offer public 1-2 hour cruises, kayak/standup paddle board tours, and private sailing charters. We didn’t have time in our schedule to explore Santa Barbara from the sea, but this would be a fun way to spend a day!
If you’re feeling really adventurous, carve out some time to spend at Channel Islands National Park, five islands off the coast of Southern California great for hiking, camping, and exploring. The islands are accessible by boat or plane.
Ojai
I’m always a fan of fitting in a day trip during travel, and this time it was an excursion to nearby Ojai. Just under an hour from Santa Barbara, you feel like you’re a world away as you leave the lushness of the coast for the dry valley of the Topatopa Mountains. Ojai is known as a small, quiet community that attracts spiritual types and self-proclaimed “weirdos” along with a handful of Hollywood elites. This eclectic town is home to the world’s largest outdoor bookstore, Meditation Mount, Ojai Olive Oil Company, the exclusive Ojai Valley Inn (this would be a great spot for an afternoon spa treatment), Topa Mountain Winery, and acres upon acres of citrus farms (TIP: don’t miss out on Ojai’s famous pixie tangerines!)
We spent a fun half day with Cloud Climbers Jeep Tours exploring Ojai and the surrounding area in an open-air jeep with our guide, Rocky. We loved hearing his stories, learning about the history of Ojai, seeing where parts of Easy A were filmed (#deepcut), and getting a taste of this weird and wonderful little town.
We spent five days and four nights in Santa Barbara and could’ve easily added on one to two more to soak up the sunshine and ocean breeze. If you can’t dedicate an entire trip to Santa Barbara, this could also be a great extension to a LA trip with the ease of Amtrak!