Whit in Málaga

Buenos from your favorite mother/daughter traveling duo! This trip to Spain will forever live in infamy, as it was my last trip before the Coronavirus pandemic shut down the majority of international borders. In fact, we were in Spain when the announcement was made that the US would be closing its borders to foreign nationals. Aside from a few moments of panic (and an abundance of hand sanitizer), Spain was the breezy, chic destination I’d always imagined. 

We started our trip off in the sunny seaside city of Málaga on the southern coast of Spain. Since this was Professor Terri’s spring break we wanted a destination where we could soak up the sun, stroll quaint streets, have afternoon coffees and evening cocktails on a patio, and immerse ourselves in the local culture. Terri was eager to get back to Europe, but temperatures in early March left us with a limited number of destinations to choose from. I narrowed it down to Portugal and southern Spain. Ultimately I settled on Spain due to better flight itineraries, and because I was hoping Málaga would be quieter in comparison to Lisbon. We tacked on Barcelona at the end because—why not! 

Bordered by the Mediterranean Sea, Málaga is located in the Andalusia region of Spain in an area known as Costa del Sol. While it’s a holiday and beach town, the city is also rich in history, culture, and art (Picasso was born here.) I get the impression that in recent years Málaga has made a big push to modernize which creates a really cool juxtaposition between the old and the new in a way that doesn’t feel overbearing. Overall, I found Málagueños to be open, kind, and curious.

Getting there and getting around:

Of course I had to stay Oneworld loyal so we flew British Airways from Dulles to Málaga, via LHR but booked our return flight from Barcelona (again, via LHR). This time we opted for World Traveler Plus (premium economy) which provides wider seats, more leg room, leg rests, and a slightly elevated dining experience. (I skipped dinner per my overnight flight routine.) 

Interestingly enough on our return flight we were upgraded to business class which literally has never happened and will never happen again; you can take a paid or mileage upgrades on international BA flights (which I frequently do), but free automatic upgrades like this are unheard of. I have a feeling it was due to the Coronavirus pandemic and them trying to fill and sell as many seats as possible. 

In Málaga we rented a car for about $100 for four days which allowed us to drive to and from the airport and explore the surrounding region. In a city like Málaga (a bit sprawling, not as dense as Madrid or Barcelona) I would certainly recommend renting a car because of the freedom and flexibility it provides. We booked an Airbnb just outside the central/historic district with a parking spot to make things even easier. 

Ordering Coffee Like a Malagueño

First thing’s first. Ordering coffee in Málaga is a bit more complicated than “black” or “with cream” and requires a very specific vernacular based on how much (or how little) coffee and milk are in the cup (or glass.) In Spain, coffee is often served in a glass and to be enjoyed while sitting down. You’ll need to specify if you want it in a paper cup for takeaway (café para llever).

Here’s your coffee cheat sheet:

• Café solo = all coffee, no milk (similar to an espresso)

• Café largo = about 80% coffee, 20% milk (basically coffee with a splash of milk)

• Café mitad = about 50% coffee, 50% milk (typically what you’ll get if you order a café con leche)

• Café corto = about 30% coffee, 70% milk

• Café sombra = about 20% coffee, 80% milk

• Café nube = about 10% coffee, 90% milk

• Leche de soya = soy milk (Terri only drinks soy milk so had to have this translation on hand!)

Spanish phrases

While Barcelona was full of English-speakers, I found it useful to have a few Spanish phrases tucked away to use in Málaga. I also think it’s really nice to try and make an effort to communicate in the local dialect—even if it’s just please and thank you. 

• Vale (bah-lé) = Ok

• Buenas (huenas) = Hello

• Hasta luego (asta luego) = Bye

• Por favor = Please

• Gracias (grathias) = Thank you (don’t forget the “s” sounds like a lisp in Spain)

• Donde esta = where is

• El baño = the bathroom

• Cuánto te debo? = how much is the bill

• Agua de grifo (aqua day gree-foe) = tap water (order this at the table so you don’t get charged for water)

• Agua sin gaz = still

• Agua con gaz = sparkling

• Una mesa para dos personas (oon-a mess-a pa-ra dos per-sewn-ass) = A table for 2 people

Centro Histórico District

We spent the majority of our time in the charming Centro Histórico district of Málaga which includes the old town, the Moorish Alcazaba fortress, Gibralfaro castle, the Roman amphitheatre, the Mercado Atarazanas open-air market, and the Catedral de la Encarnación de Málaga. Calle Marques de Larios is the main thoroughfare and is lined with both shops and alleyways to get lost in. This historic district runs all the way down to the water, and is bordered by SoHo (kind of an edgy, hip quarter) to the southwest and various beach neighborhoods to the southeast. Many of the streets are lined with Seville orange trees which creates the most heavenly scent and the dreamiest scene.

Shopping:

• Caramba (an ethically and locally sourced clothing, accessories, and art store—check out their selection of Hammels Sunglasses)

• Vila Clothes (a kind of Euro Forever 21 but a bit better quality)

To eat:
*Tapas aren’t just food, they are a way of life; bounce from spot to spot trying a different selection—no need to stay at one restaurant all night
*You will likely get a bowl of olives wherever you order a drink
*Since the Andalusian region is known for its seafood, I highly recommend ordering boquerones fritos wherever possible (fried white anchovies) and also berenjenas fritas (fried eggplant) with molasses drizzled on top

• Byoko (fresh, airy, modern Mediterranean vibes at this restaurant)

• La Deriva (a little traditional, a little modern, but all yummy Spanish food)

• La Farola de Orellana (dine like a local at this buzzy little hole-in-the-wall tapas restaurant with a friendly staff who encourages you to stumble through the Spanish menu)

• Uvedoble Taberna (a delicious modern take on tapas)

Breakfast/coffee/sweets:
*The typical breakfast in Málaga is a pitufo (which literally means “smurf”) and is toast topped with olive oil, tomato, butter, jam, cheese or any combo
*Try a torta loca if you can—the famous Málaga treat made from two oversized cookies, pastry cream, and then covered in a sweet glaze…I’m still dreaming about them

• Casa Mira (try the turrón flavored ice cream they’re known for)

• Café Tramazzino (highly recommend pancakes or avocado toast at this modern breakfast spot)

• Jaral Café (pop into this tiny neighborhood spot for a coffee and pitufo)

• Café Central (relax and take in the views of Plaza de la Constitución from the patio, also home of the famous Málaga coffee mural)

Drinks:
*If you take one thing away from this blog post, do NOT order sangria...order a tinto de verano instead (literal translation: summer red wine); they serve it everywhere and it’s basically red wine and lemon Fanta

• Parador de Gibralfaro patio (THE spot for a sunset view of all of Málaga)

• Cobalto 15 (super cool, funky, slightly upscale spot for a rooftop cocktail in SoHo)

To do:

• Spend the day with Spain Food Sherpas; we did the tapas tour which I cannot recommend enough as a great primer to Málaga food culture

• Day trip to Ronda, Frigiliana, or Cordoba (all within 1-2 hours driving)

• Visit La Organica olive oil farm

• Get lost in the food stalls at Mercado de Atarazanas

• Stroll down to the beach and dip your toes in the water (Playa de la Malagueta)

• Bask in the sunshine in the courtyard of La Catedral de Málaga with an ice cream cone and book

Ronda

Ronda was a nice little day trip excursion for us; you likely will recognize this town for its breathtaking Puente Nuevo (“New Bridge”) which connects the newer part of town to the old Moorish quarter. Ronda is a small, quiet, tranquil little escape from the buzz of Málaga. Aside from the Puente Nuevo and historic bullfighting ring there aren’t any other major attractions to see, so instead take it easy! Enjoy lunch at Tragatá (truly stunning interior); stroll around the old town; pick up a few pieces of hand painted pottery at La Cancela, Muebles, Decoración Y Antigüedades (say hi to the owner’s dog); and enjoy an afternoon coffee on the patio at Parador de Ronda and admire the views of the bridge. 

After a few slow, sunny days in Málaga (they don’t call it Costa del Sol for nothing), we said hasta luego and boarded our luxury Ryanair flight for a few days of city-living in Barcelona!