Barcelona was the second stop on our mother/daughter “Spring Break” trip. We couldn’t go all the way to Spain and not spend time in one of the major cities so from Andalusia to Catalonia we went! I’m a big fan of flying into one city and out of another instead of doubling back. We booked a cheap Ryanair flight from Málaga to Barcelona and squeezed in two days and two nights in Barcelona before heading back to the US. Since we had such limited time, this won’t be a comprehensive guide (not to mention the fact that restaurants began shutting down the night before we left due to Coronavirus) but it certainly was a great introduction and I can’t wait to return.

While Málaga was sunshine, seafood, and lazy coffees, Barcelona was dramatic architecture, buzzy bars, and moody afternoon light.

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Getting there and getting around

I highly recommend purchasing the Hola Barcelona Travel Card; this pass gives you unlimited rides on the metro and bus for two, three, four, or five days. To put things into perspective: one metro or bus ride is €2.40, so if you plan on taking at least six rides over two days in Barcelona (don’t forget the ride to and from the airport!) the €16.30 48-hour pass is well worth the price. We bought our passes at the metro station at the airport, but you can also purchase them online ahead of time.

The metro and bus are extremely easy to navigate, especially to and from the airport. As always, I recommend CityMapper app to help you get around overseas!

Where to stay

We stayed in Vila de Gràcia, “a low-key district of narrow streets and cozy squares dotted with organic grocers, hip co-working spaces and artist studios.” Honestly, one of my first impressions was that it looked like Paris (or does Paris look like Spain 🤔?) I chose this neighborhood for its charm and location — close enough to the hustle and bustle of Eixample and the Gothic Quarter, but far enough away for a bit more peace and quiet.

I will admit, I think I read one too many articles about pickpocketing in Barcelona and freaked myself out about ensuring we stayed in a safe neighborhood so I avoided El Raval and most of the tourist traps like La Rambla. Use common sense, keep an eye on your purse, and don’t be stupid and you’ll be just fine; I never felt unsafe in Barcelona during our stay.

Choosing Your Gaudí

You can’t take five steps in Barcelona without running into the work of Antoni Gaudí, the famed Catalan architect who left his mark all over the city. While his work was considered excessive at the time, he has been embraced in modern times and you have your pick of works to see: Sagrada Familia, Casa Mila, Park Güell, Casa Batllo. A stroll down Passeig de Gràcia will take you past a few of his most famous buildings (TIP: go at twilight, the colors are magical). The colors, whimsy, and dreaminess of his designs are truly spectacular! We chose Park Güell as our big “Gaudí” to pay a visit to. We opted not to buy tickets and just view the part of the park open to the public. The park was originally designed and built as a (failed) housing development and you can still see some of the original houses. We spent the morning meandering and taking in the stunning views of the city all the way to the ocean.

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To eat:

Patisserie la Colmena (try the xuixo, a delicious deep-fried, sugar-coated pastry filled with crema catalana...so good, I carried four home on the plane with me)
La Fermata (cheap but tasty takeaway pizza by the slice/gram)
Buenas Migas (think more upscale Panera and delicious focaccia, good for a quick bite)
Brunch & Cake (Instagram worthy spot for brunch, each dish is a work of art and a huge vegan menu)
La Catalista (I literally dream of going back here, the most beautiful little wine bar specializing in Catalan wine and food pairings)
Turris (bread, pastries, desserts and more)

Coronavirus

I can’t write about our time in Barcelona without mentioning the ever-present and ever-looming COVID-19 threat which really began to peak on our last day in Barcelona. On our final evening the Prime Minister ordered restaurants and stores to close the following day which created a very eerie atmosphere. It was a Friday night in Barcelona and the streets were quiet and many restaurants had already shuttered. La Catalista was serving a limited menu and finishing off already opened bottles of wine so they wouldn’t go to waste.

The next day we departed for the airport where we ran across countless folks making their “escape” back to the US including a lot of students who had been studying abroad. We were, shockingly, upgraded from Premium Economy to Business for our transatlantic flight which has never happened and will never happen again (you pay for these upgrades in dollars or miles.) I suspect it had something to do with filling the plane but it was a welcome surprise. At Dulles airport we were greeted with a (seemingly) miles long custom line. As a Global Entry holder, my entire process took an hour (including temperature check) and my mom’s took three hours. We came back to an entirely different country than when we’d left, but that’s a story for another time.