Round headshot.jpg

Hey, I’m Whitley and this is Whit Around the World where I write about going places and the joy I find in getting there.

Whit in Napa

Whit in Napa

General rule of thumb: Napa is always a good idea! This trip started out as one of those “wait, should we go to Napa?” conversations and ended in a quick three days of warm weather, good food, and good wine with a dear friend. This was my second trip to Napa so it was exciting to revisit some favorites and also discover new ones. Napa, Sonoma, Yountville, St. Helena, Calistoga, and the surrounding area is perfect for a girls trip, a romantic trip, or even a trip with parents if they’re oenophiles. The Napa Valley wine region is a food and wine lover’s dream, but also anyone who appreciates beautiful design, architecture, and those signature Northern California aesthetics. Imagine rolling vineyards and palatial wineries with grounds that feel plucked from the pages of Architectural Digest; this is where you go if you want to indulge and relax. 

Getting there and getting around

Both times I’ve flown into San Francisco, but the locals will tell you they prefer the accessibility and lack of crowds at Oakland Airport. I can’t say enough good things about my direct DCA - SFO flight on Alaska Airlines (so happy they’re part of the Oneworld Alliance). Their fleet seems to just generally be more updated with chargers at every seat and they offer great onboard service. Absolutely flying Alaska anytime I can moving forward. 

Whether you fly to San Francisco or Oakland, you’ll still need to rent a car and drive the remaining hour north to Napa or arrange for pick-up. I think having your own car is vital to fully enjoy and experience the Napa Valley wine region. The region is so sprawling, it could take you 40 minutes to an hour to get from your hotel to a winery or spa appointment. You’ll spend a small fortune only relying on Uber or Lyft to get you around. Honestly, Napa is one of my favorite places to drive because it’s just so scenic. 

The Lay of the Land

Generally speaking when it comes to where to stay and eat, there are four main towns that comprise Napa Valley (not to be confused with the 16 various American Viticultural Areas which you’ll see on wine labels).

  • Napa: The largest town in the area, Downtown Napa has a chic industrial vibe with multiple hotels, B&Bs, restaurants, and shopping as well as the Napa Riverfront area.

  • Yountville: Picturesque, elegant, charming...I could go on about how much I love Yountville and its perfectly manicured streets. Yountville is small and walkable, but packed to the brim with some of the best restaurants and hotels in the region. (Yountville is, far and away, my favorite town in the region!)

  • St. Helena: With a cozy small town feel, St. Helena has a lovely main street with shops, restaurants and galleries (it is, afterall, nicknamed “Napa Valley's Main Street.”)

  • Calistoga: The northernmost town, Calistoga is “rustic yet refined” and known for its mineral-rich waters (and mud!) and natural geothermal hot springs making it popular among the spa-going crowd.

As I mentioned, the Napa area is sprawling and while places like downtown Napa and Yountville are best explored on foot, you’ll still need a car to traverse between towns. 

A few years ago I stayed at Hotel Yountville, perfectly situated along a row of some of Napa’s best restaurants. This hotel is luxurious, elegant, and California cool with a beautiful pool, hot tub, fire pits, and fireplaces in most rooms. Truly one of the loveliest hotels I’ve stayed in!

This most recent trip, we stayed at the White House Napa Valley Inn located in downtown Napa which was a gem of a find. The perfect mix of historic charm and modern amenities, this small boutique hotel offers complimentary breakfast and afternoon wine and light bites. I loved the secret garden vibes of this hotel, including a cute little pool surrounded by day beds and loungers. 

The Wine

I’ll be the first to admit my knowledge and appreciation of fine wine is...lacking...to say the least. But, I know a beautiful vineyard when I see one 😁

Route 29 is the main road from Napa all the way up to Calistoga and the main thoroughfare for getting to the area’s wineries and vineyards. Obviously hiring cars and vans is a popular way to get from spot to spot, but I’ve also had luck just calling Ubers and this past trip we simply just drove ourselves (nothing like trying to avoid that post-30 hangover). I’ve also heard Lace and Limos is amazing and a super cute way to get around.

Here are some of my favorite spots:

  • Round Pond Estate (a beautiful line of palm trees greets you as you enter, I could’ve spent all day on their huge porch overlooking the vineyard)

  • Alpha Omega (reserve a spot on the massive patio and enjoy views of the impressive fountains, a total vibe)

  • Artesa (this place is modern and iconic, practically buried in the hillside)

  • Domaine Carneros (you’ll likely recognize the exterior of this massive chateau that specializes in sparkling)

  • Charles Krug (ask to include a sparkling in your tasting, and order the wood-fired pizza if it’s available)

  • Cakebread Cellars (with a brand new tasting room, this place is out of the world beautiful)

  • Frogsleap (probably one of the most beautiful wineries I’ve visited, amazing interior design and even more spectacular gardens)

  • Silverado (enjoy the sweeping views from this hilltop winery, rustic and romantic)

The food

Half of visiting Napa is drinking and the other half is eating. Napa is home to both Michelin starred restaurants and side-of-the-road local haunts. You can start the day with a $3 english muffin and end it with a $300 serving of caviar. 

Coffee/breakfast/lunch

  • Bouchon Bakery (it’s easy to see why this cute little bakery has such a cult following! Tip: don’t even attempt coming back for takeaway sandwiches at lunch on the weekend, the line is insane...get everything you want in the morning)

  • Model Bakery (known for their homemade english muffins)

  • R+D Kitchen (this is THE spot for a chicken sandwich and margarita, trust me)

  • In-N-Out (I couldn’t not include, there’s a location just beyond downtown)

  • Gott’s Roadside (when I tell you this Impossible burger gave me life, grab a soft serve cone too!)

  • Oakville Grocery (we tried to stop here for a casual lunch but the line was insane, avoid our mistake and place a curbside pickup order)

Dinner

  • Bottega (creative and indulgent Italian food in a buzzy, rustic restaurant)

  • Oxbow Market (this market is a staple of downtown Napa, check out Hog Island Oyster and Oxbow Cheese and Wine merchant for picnic accoutrements) 

  • Regiis Ova Lounge (a champagne and caviar lounge by Thomas Keller...need I say more? A huge shoutout to my friend’s older brother who hooked us up with the most exquisite experience here. I never knew I liked tempura fried chicken with caviar and ranch until now.) 

  • Bouchon (a Thomas Keller classic, this cozy french inspired restaurant is a must!)

  • Coqueta (despite its prime location in Yountville, this was a disappointment)

  • Auberge de Soleil (if you want views, this is the spot...book a table on the patio for an unforgettable setting)

Other things to do

While Napa and its surrounding areas are the epitome of wine country, I would be remiss if I didn’t include other activities. 

  • Spend a day of luxury at the Spa Solage in Calistoga, this is truly one of the loveliest spas I’ve ever been to with its own dedicated pool facilities for spa guests. Enjoy champagne by the pool after indulging in a massage or mud bath (this area is known for its healing mineral waters.) The spa is open for day guests with an extra fee.

  • Swap out wine for olive oil, Round Pond Estate offers an olive oil tasting or visit The Olive Press at Oxbow Market.

  • Hike or bike — check out Skyline Wilderness Park, Robert Louis Stevenson State Park, Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve in nearby Sonoma (temporarily closed as of October 2021 due to fire damage), or even the French Laundry vegetable garden in Yountville. You can also rent bikes in Napa or Yountville and explore the Napa Valley Vine Trail, a shared-use recreational trail.

  • Switch up your perspective with a dreamy hot air balloon ride high above the vineyards 

  • Visit the Culinary Institute of America in Napa for a hands on cooking class with the best of the best; currently classes are not open for visitors but they are hoping to restart in fall 2022

The beauty of Napa never gets old, it feels like the kind of place I could visit over and over again and keep discovering new places. The next time you want to indulge and relax in the sunshine with good food and wine, put Napa at the top of your list.

Whit at 31

Whit at 31

Whit in the Catskills

Whit in the Catskills