Whit in Scotland
My June, 2019 trip to Scotland was planned as a special way to celebrate my mother’s 60th birthday — I know, how does she not look a day over 45? Terri has always been one of my best travel companions; as a child I tagged along on work trips to London and Copenhagen and Terri notoriously fake-chaperoned a particularly memorable high school trip to Paris. Now the tables have turned and it’s my turn to take the lead and whisk her off on trips around the world. Terri had Scotland in mind from the start, so I set out to plan a memorable (and easy) trip for us.
To me, Scotland combines the bustle of London with the warmth and kindness of Ireland and it’s incredibly easy to create an itinerary that includes both city and country excursions. We split our 6 nights between Glasgow and Edinburgh both arriving and departing via Glasgow, and driving between the two cities. If I could have done things differently I would have arrived and departed via opposite cities so we didn’t have to double back, but they were only about a 60 minute drive apart so it was not a huge inconvenience. I’ll share more thoughts on the two cities, as well as more helpful information for planning a trip to Scotland below.
Getting there and getting around
Let it be known that I am a huge British Airways fan girl; honestly BA is one of the main reasons I stay Oneworld loyal. From Washington, DC Scotland (either Glasgow or Edinburgh) is just a 9-12 hour trip away (DC to London, then London to Scotland) — easy, breezy with multiple connecting flights options per day on BA.
I love renting a car if I plan on spending any time outside the metropolitan city area, and especially if traveling with someone else. Depending on how far the airport is from where you’re staying, the cost of the rental alone can sometimes offset transit costs incurred by going to and from. It’s easy to overlook the benefits of renting a car (hassle, cost, etc.) but it really opens up your possibilities in terms of exploring. I try to ensure my Airbnb or hotel has parking available to keep things easy.
Also, driving on the other side of the road is NOT THAT HARD. Trust. It takes a little getting used to and traffic circles might throw you for a loop initially, but I found it easy to get the hang of.
Renting a car for the week allowed us to drive between Glasgow and Edinburgh, up to Loch Lomond, to Stirling, and The Gleneagles Hotel. There is so much to see (and so much more I hope to see!) in Scotland; you can’t go and not experience the lush, rolling hills and vast countryside only accessed by car!
In terms of city transportation, we walked and drove everywhere in Glasgow (ample parking) but parked the car in Edinburgh and took the bus everywhere. Lothian buses are plentiful and frequent. One ride will cost you £1.80, but for just £4 you can buy a day-pass and ride as many times as you want. Make things even easier and download the Lothian app for tickets.
Glasgow
What can I say other than this city is the cooler, smaller, and significantly more underrated little sister of Edinburgh (with way less tourists.) Do not sleep on this city! We stayed in and spent the majority of our time in Glasgow’s West End. Beautiful architecture, quaint shops, leafy parks and winding roads; think London’s Notting Hill or DC’s Georgetown. The center of it all is Byres Road (shops, restaurants, etc.) and nearby Glasgow University. I love getting lost in a city; wandering the neighborhoods, seeing the kids walk to school, having a lazy afternoon coffee, and popping into any shops that seem cute. Check out some of my Glasgow favorites below to do just that. TIP: Save all the locations below in Google Maps to easily access them.
Shopping:
Oliver Bonas (UK favorite, similar to Francescas in the US)
Papyrus (different than Papyrus stores in the US, and where I bought my beloved passport cover)
Shearer Candles (pick up the Hogmanay candle for Christmas)
Cafés:
Cafe Swiss (great afternoon tea here)
To eat:
*One issue we ran into in Glasgow in particular was that restaurants (not pubs) did not stay open late. I would say anything after 8PM is a gamble.
*Make sure you try Irn Bru, Scotland’s “national soda”
Old Saltys (cannot overstate how amazing the fish and chips were here, so good we went back twice)
Kember & Jones (perfect any time of day either for a snack or a full meal)
Celino’s (Italian dine-in and takeaway, recommended by a local shopkeeper)
Mother India (also recommended by a local shopkeeper)
To do:
Stroll the Glasgow Botanic Gardens in the morning
Explore Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum
Wander the grounds of Glasgow University
Day trip to Stirling Castle and Doune Castle
Day trip through the highlands (more below)
Highlands Day Trip
With more time in Scotland we could’ve fit in a proper trip up north (one day!) but we did get a taste of the Highlands on our driving trip. First, let me first say we were #blessed with the MOST beautiful few days of weather and a “heat wave” (bringing the temperature to around 80°F). Photos truly do not do justice to the scenery. We leisurely meandered up the A82 past Loch Lomond and through the Trossachs National Park, stopping any time we wanted to snap a photo or just get out and stretch our legs. See the stops we made along the way below, or click here for the map:
Auchentullich farm shop (for fresh ice cream #CowtoCone)
Luss (to stroll around)
An Ceann Mòr: Inveruglas
The Drovers Inn (for an old school pub lunch)
Falls of Falloch
Country Mumkins At The Artisan Cafe
The Gleneagles Hotel
I would be remiss if I didn’t mention our afternoon at Gleneagles, one of the highlights of our trip! Tea has always been a special ritual for my mom and me, and I couldn’t think of a better way to commemorate her birthday and our trip than afternoon tea at this almost 100 year old hotel once described as a “Riviera in the Highlands.” Gleneagles is truly luxurious and afternoon tea plus a walk around the grounds was a total, indulgent treat. It’s just an hour from both Glasgow and Edinburgh and well worth the day trip!
Edinburgh
I’ll be honest, I did not have the best first impression of Edinburgh - especially after coming from Glasgow. In comparison Edinburgh seemed over-crowded and busy, but we were able to seek out some quiet pockets away from the hustle and bustle I’ll share below. To start, we stayed between Edinburgh’s New Town and Leith (right off Leith Walk) which gave us great access to the “city center” area but also provided some quirkiness and character. Leith has an important history as the port district of Edinburgh but, more recently, has gained the reputation of being the hippest, coolest, and most creative neighborhood in the city. It’s only a 35-45 minute walk from Leith to Edinburgh’s Old and New Towns and really gives you a different taste of the city.
Shopping:
The Cambridge Satchel Company (you will die at how lovely these bags are)
Walker Slater Ladieswear (buy something tweed!)
To eat/drink:
The King’s Wark (one of the best meals we had in Scotland)
Mimi’s Bakehouse (delicious afternoon tea and scones)
Hula Juice Bar (popped in for something green after a week of heavy carbs)
OQO - Your Coffee Nook (sleek little coffee shop)
L’escargot Blanc (enjoyed some wine and snacks at the bar here)
Cafe Royal (great pub to grab a beer at in the middle of everything)
Guildford Arms (was too crowded when we came, but loved the old school feel of this pub)
To do:
Take in the views from the top of Calton Hill
Get lost in the charm of Dean Village
Enjoy a morning coffee in the Princes Street Gardens (before it gets too busy)
Shop on Victoria Street
Spend a day exploring Leith
Just thinking about Scotland gives me the warm and fuzzies, it’s that kind of place. The people are kind, the scenery is stunning, the charm is abundant — I can’t recommend a visit here enough. (P.S. please bring me back shortbread cookies if you do!)
